What the Swiss label really means in watches and how to spot a fake.
The “Swiss” Marking, or What Quality Watches Mean
Watch marking — “Swiss made”
The label “Swiss made” is a symbol of premium quality, meaning that watches marked with this designation (including replicas) are technically perfect (accurate, reliable, waterproof, shock-resistant) and aesthetically refined (elegant and original in design). It’s a combination of ancient watchmaking traditions and the latest technological achievements — that’s what “Swiss made” represents.
But not every watch has the right to carry this mark. The use of the Swiss designation is regulated by specific legislation, setting minimum standards for watches that want to bear the prestigious “Swiss made” or “Swiss” label. First, the assembly of the movement, installation of all case parts, and final testing must take place exclusively in Switzerland. Also, at least half of all components and the movement must originate from Switzerland.
Movement marking — “Swiss movement”
The marking “Swiss movement” may appear on watches, meaning “movement made in Switzerland.” It’s used when the movement is of Swiss origin, but the watch itself is assembled outside Switzerland. If the Swiss component is not the movement but another part, then the name of that component replaces “movement.” According to the same regulations, the word “movement” and similar terms must be written in the same font, size, and color as “Swiss.”
Movement marking — “Swiss parts”
The label “Swiss parts” is applied to watches with movements assembled outside Switzerland from Swiss-made components. It may only be applied to the movement itself and never to other parts of the watch.
Bracelet marking — “Swiss wristlet”
Not only the case back can be marked — the bracelet can too. The label “Swiss made” may appear on a bracelet if it was manufactured in Switzerland. If the watch itself was made elsewhere, the Swiss bracelet must be marked clearly to indicate that only the bracelet is of Swiss origin — “Swiss wristlet.”
Determining the origin of a bracelet has its specifics. It is considered Swiss only if over 50% of production costs were incurred in Switzerland and if it was processed and tested there.
Case marking — “Swiss case”
The marking “Swiss case” is given only to a watch case manufactured in Switzerland; it must also be stamped, shaped, and polished there (i.e., it underwent proprietary Swiss treatment), assembled and tested in Switzerland, or have had over 50% of production costs incurred within Switzerland (excluding material costs).
The “Swiss case” label on the exterior means the watch itself is not Swiss-made, so the actual country of origin of the watch or movement must also be stated on the outer case.
Marking for quartz watches — “Swiss Quarz”
“Swiss Quarz” is the label for quartz watches of Swiss origin (meaning the entire watch, not just the movement, is made in Switzerland).
And is your watch “Swiss made”?